hair bow

I saw this cute hair bow idea on pinterest and decided to make my own. I followed a tutorial and found the shape bulky in the centre, so I decided to change the pattern and make my own to share with you. I have photographed the three main stages below and you can see the end result, once tied, above. At the bottom of this post is a printable instruction sheet including the template to make your own.

Mx

Binding Tutorial

As I release my first ever quilt pattern, I looked back on my blog tutorials to help people finish their quilts and decided it was time for an update . I wanted to share step by step instructions on how to cut, join and attach binding to complete a project for anyone needing a little extra guidance. 

My preferred method of binding, especially for big projects and quilts is this one. I cut 2 1/2" X WOF (width of fabric) strips. If necessary, I join the strips to create one length. You can use a straight join with the strips simply attached end to end, however, I prefer a 45° join as they are less bulky. To create the 45° join, take one strip on the wrong side and draw a line at 45° across the end. Lay this on top of your next strip, right sides together at 90° with the draw line across the outer corner. Pin together and sew along the marked line. Trim off the corner to leave a 1/4" seam and press open. Repeat as needed to create your continuous length of binding, then press in half lengthways.

 Take the pressed binding strip and position on the front of your project, with the raw edges of the binding aligned along the outer edge. I like to start the binding along the bottom edge as the join is usually less noticeable there. Clip or pin the binding in position along the first edge and start to stitch, leaving the first 4 - 5" of the strip loose. Use a 1/4" seam allowance along the raw edge and a walking foot on your sewing machine if possible (as this helps to feed the layers through evenly). 

For the corners, stop stitching 1/4" from the end. Then, fold the fabric 90° away from the project, creating a 45° fold at the corner. Holding the corner fold (you may wish to pin), flip  the binding 180° so it aligns with the next raw edge creating a neat 90° corner, covering the 45° fold inside. Clip in place and restart sewing from the corner edge, continuing to use the 1/4" seam allowance. Repeat for each corner until you come towards the final length of binding. You will need to leave a gap with loose end to join to the beginning of the strip. 

To join the strips on a project, lay the binding down flat across the unstitched gap. The binding should overlap. Measure and trim the ends so that they are a neat straight edge with an overlap of exactly 2 1/2".  

Then, open out the folded strips and mark a line 45° across one end. Making sure you don't twist the strips, position the marked end right sides together at 90° with the opposite end, held away from the edge of the project. Pin and stitch along the marked line, then open out to check the join is correct and will lay flat. If so, trim the corner off leaving a 1/4" seam and finger press open. Stitch the remainder of the binding to the project. 

 

With the front sewn on, the pressed edge of the binding can then be folded over to the back to be stitched down. This can be done by machine for speed, but I always prefer to hand sew using a ladder stitch for an invisible finish. Carefully fold over the binding one section at a time, using binding clips to hold in place. These can mark fabric if left on too long so just clip each section as you are sewing then remove. The binding shouldn't be pulled so it is too tight over the edge of the project, or be left loose. Once clipped in place, simply ladder stitch along the pressed edge onto the backing fabric. For the corners, sew down flat until you reach the edge of the project, then folding the excess in, fold the next edge over to create a mitred corner. Clip in place and continue stitching the folded edge of the binding, repeating at each corner until the binding is fully secured. The finished binding will look similar on both sides.

 

Mx

scrappy triangle cushion

I made this cushion using my cotton + steel fabrics as part of my #100dayproject on Instagram. I grouped the fabrics into colour families and pieced half square triangles around a central economy block to create the design. The cushion finishes up at 18". If you would like to make your own, here's how to do it …

To create the patchwork, you will need to cut: 

1 blue square @ 4 3/4"

4 yellow triangles

8 navy triangles

20 cream triangles

20 pink triangles

12 peach triangles

4 teal triangles

 For the half square triangles, I use the easy angle ruler and cut to a 3 1/2". If you don't have this ruler, cut squares at 3 7/8th" and split on the 45 degree angle. 

For the economy block, position the first two triangles opposite each other, RST onto the central square. Align along the outer edges, pin and sew. Press open, then repeat for the remaining two sides as seen above. Trim the finished block to a square (this should be 6 1/2"). 

 To construct the half square triangle blocks, place two triangles RST, pin and sew along the long edge. Press open and trim to a square, removing the dog ears on the corners. Ensure all of the half square triangle blocks are the same size (this should be 3 1/2"). 

To put the cushion top together, I like to lay out all of my cut pieces to check I'm happy with the layout. I then stitch the centre block, followed by the surrounding half square triangles. I like to chain piece, so I prep all of the blocks and then stitch and press in stages. To join the blocks, I group into 4 patches around the centre, then piece together as shown above. 

I chose to hand quilt the top to highlight the diamonds created by the colours. I used aurifil 12WT and echo quilted, using a large quilting hoop to help with the tension as I stitched. Of course, you could machine quilt if your preferred. 

To finish the cushion, I created a concealed zip back (tutorial post here) and bound the edges with 2 1/4" binding (binding tutorial post here) for a neat finish to coordinate with my catty corner quilt (see here).

I'm pretty pleased with how this turned out and Millie approves too. I hope this blog helps you to create your own version. Of course, you can switch around the colour schemes for completely different looks to make use of your fabric scraps. 

Mx

mini travel sewing case

I have created my mini travel sewing case and I love it. It has a zip pocket and a slip pocket, optional felt needle minder and all fastens with a ribbon. 

I have made two so far, one to keep my sewing essentials in at home. The second is this scrappy patchwork one, that I'm planning to keep in the car with a small cross stitch kit in. Its super neat and perfect for travelling.

If you don't want to use it for sewing, fill it with what ever else you fancy, it also fits a passport and money nicely. 

 

You can now purchase the #minitravelsewingcase pattern in my Etsy store!

Mx

Binding Tutorial: Method 2

For my second binding method, I cut strips 2 1/2" and press in half lengthways. The strips are then laid onto the front of the project, with the raw edges of the binding along the outer edge of the project. The binding is attached using the machine with a 1/4" seam allowance along the raw edge. Leave a loose tail of binding approximately 4" long at the start to allow for joining later. At the corners, I stop 1/4" from the end as seen in photo 1. I then fold the fabric away from the project, creating a 45` angle on the corner (photo 2). I then fold the binding strip up vertically to create a neat 90` angle on the corner, with the 45` fold inside and clip in place (photo 3). I restart sewing from the corner edge, continuing to use the 1/4" seam allowance and repeating for each corner.

 

I always start binding in the bottom centre of a project if possible and leave about a 3" gap for joining the binding. The join can be a little tricky to get it to a neat 45` the perfect length, but looks great once it's done and I think it's worth taking the time to do.

 

I start by opening out the binding so it lays flat. One end is folded down on a 45` angle away from the project, with RSU. The other end is then laid across so the binding strips are RST. Following the 45` angle of the fold beneath, I pin the strips together. The pinned binding is then carefully moved out from the project to enable access with the machine to sew along the 45` angle, joining the two strips.

 

Once joined, it is always best to check the binding will lay flat, (no excess which will crease and not too tight that its pulling). Once happy, I cut off the excess from the ends to leave just a 1/4" seam which I press open. Once the join is completed, the binding can be fully sewn onto the front.

 

 

 

With the front sewn on, the pressed edge of the binding can then be folded over to the back. It should look like the above photos at this stage. It is then time to sew on the back of the binding. This could be done by machine for speed, but I always prefer to hand sew using a ladder stitch for an invisible attachment. I gentle fold over the binding one section at a time, using binding clips to hold in place. These can mark fabric if left on too long so I always just do the bit I'm sewing then remove. The binding shouldn't be pulled so it is too tight over the edge of the project, but doesn't want to be left loose. Once clipped in place, simply ladder stitch along the pressed edge onto the backing fabric. This is easier if your backing is in one piece as its less bulky than having the extra seams of a patchwork, but can be done if your project is two sided. With the corners, simply follow the mitre from the front and fold the excess underneath to create the 45` joint before stitching.

 

 

The finished binding will look similar on both sides, something like the cushion in the example above.

 

Mx

Choose and sew supply case

It's release day for my latest pattern and I’m so excited, I thought I’d share a little more about how and why I designed this choose and sew supply case.

At the beginning of the year, I started an EPP quilt. I knew it would take me a long time to sew and would mainly to sewing while traveling, so of course, it needed its own pouch. I picked the 2 in 1 designed by aneela honey and it’s a great pouch but unfortunately not for this. It wasn’t long before I was getting frustrated with it and decided to design my own!

 

The main problem is that there isn’t anywhere to put the pieces your working on, other than on top of the vinyl pockets. This was fine until I was sewing in the car and my fabric and papers ended up going down the side of the car seat. I knew I needed somewhere to tuck my pieces safely whilst still having easy access to them when sewing.

The second thing was, since all my tools was in the same pocket, I was constantly in and out for my scissors. They would get lost amongst the other tools, plus I couldn’t leave the pocket open for easy access since everything would fall out.

This workspace section of my new pouch was the solution I came up with...

 

The next problem I encountered was when I started putting my pieces together. Once sewn together, they no longer fit in my pouch. This was ok if I was at home but, when out I didn’t want to spoil them. Since I didn’t have anywhere to put them, it meant taking another pouch. I decided one large pocket was the solution on the other side of my new pouch...

Next was some storage to take my fabric and papers with me. I thought a simple pouch would be just fine. Then I thought about it a bit more and remembered how annoying it is when you fancy something else for a change. I’d either have to take all of my quilt pieces out or find a different pouch for the new project and have to move all of my tools. I came up with the idea of a removable pouch. This way I could keep my tools in the case but make multiple pouches to store different projects. Even better they just snap in or out whenever I fancy a change. This one was a tester, adding kam snaps to a premade zipper pouch...

For the outside, I chose to make a patchwork panel with a mix of cotton & steel prints around this fab sloth scrap I had. I finished this one with some pink binding to tie in with the inside and an open ended zip fastening. To make it portable, the whole case folds neatly in half with all the supplies inside.

 

If you like this idea, I have written it up into a new pattern so you can make your own. Not happy with just one version though, (since one pouch isn’t for everyone) I have made several options within the pattern. It actually includes 4 workspace pocket options, 3 large storage pocket options, 2 construction methods, in 2 sizes and I even added optional handles to make your supply case more portable! You choose how you would like your workspace and storage, from the different pocket variations and fastenings and follow the instructions to sew up a case and snap in pouches to suit your needs... Hence why I decided to call it the 'choose and sew supply case'. I hope it gives you plenty of choice and I can't wait to see everyone’s different versions!

The pattern is available in my Etsy store here...
 

Mx

escape and create christmas

I saw a post on Instagram asking for bloggers to join Escape and Create and thought it was a great opportunity. I applied, but wasn’t expecting to hear from them. It was to my surprise that they replied to say I was one of the chosen sewers. I am so thrilled to be part of the team. I have just got my first blog post finished and published with them... I am so excited I figured I’d share it here too!!

 

I love Christmas and thought it was a good excuse to make a reversible Christmas patchwork table runner, placemats and coasters. I wrote the blog to include full 'how to' instructions, with extra information like how much fabric to order and a handy cutting diagram to get the most from your fabric.

Since this made it quite a long blog post, I choose to remove the binding instructions, as readers who are already quilters will know how to sew binding anyway. The project is also suitable for beginners though, so I have shared the tutorial on binding on a separate blog post here. This one goes through the method I used on this project, but I also plan on sharing an alternative binding tutorial later so keep your eyes peeled for that coming up.

 

 

So, if you fancy looking at this project in more detail, want instructions to make your own or just fancy a read... go check it out on the Escape and Create page here. You can also find a great choice of fabrics and patterns on their website too, so I'd recommend a look.

 

This project was also included in my Q4 finish-a-long, so I can tick it off as complete and you can see my list here.

 

Mx

Snappy zip pouch

So I have now released my first pattern! It’s called the snappy zip pouch and I thought I’d tell you all about it!

It all started with the gift I made for the #send a little love swap I took part in January/February. I decided to create this double sided pouch. One side has a zip and the other a snap fastening (or in this case 2)

I was very happy when the recipient loved it and I got many compliments. A couple of people asked if I’d be making a pattern because they would like to make one too. I wasn’t sure at first but then thought why not... it wasn’t the easiest to do though. I tend to make little scribbles as I sew when I’m making it up as I go, sometimes I can’t even understand them and definitely not enough to write instructions! 

I decided I’d start again, worked out the measurements and take pictures as I sew. Then came the written instructions, for this I talked my sister into helping. She is loads better at English but only a beginner at sewing, so explaining everything wasn’t the easiest. We thought we had done alright but wasn’t quite happy with our first attempt. I sent it to a couple of people to pattern test for me and give some feedback. Then came the stress of making amendments, a few diagrams and deciding the pictures weren’t quite right. I ended up making another pouch to show everything clearly and I am so glad I did. Then it went off to the pattern testers again, plus an extra as a fresh set of eyes.

During this time I also made a couple more and changed the sizes and made a few alterations. My sister was not pleased when I asked to add more to the pattern, but as a consumer I always love bonus sizes so thought it could only be a good thing. 

I’m so happy with how it turned out and the pdf download is now available in my Etsy store. I feel nervous about the whole selling thing but also I’m so excited to see everyone’s pouches. 

Would I do it again... part of me thinks no. It’s a lot of effort and I found it quite stressful, however... maybe, yes. I have another pouch I’m desperate to make myself but feel it could also be a nice pattern to share. I think we learnt a lot and it might be easier the second time, so we shall see...watch this space!

If you want to make your own #snappyzippouch visit my Etsy here to buy the pattern!

This whole experience was part of my finish-a-long project list for this quarter. You can read more about my projects here. It is almost time for Q3 so if you fancy joining too, visit their blog here.

Mx

zipped cushion tutorial

Since I'm running a cushion swap over on Instagram, I thought I would share a quick tutorial on how I like to make a nice neat zipped cushion back.

 

 

Start with a zip longer than your cushion width. Cut a piece of fabric approximately 2" high by the width of the cushion for the bottom of the back. Lay your zipper teeth down onto the right side of the fabric strip and pin in place, so the zipper tape lines up with the top edge of the fabric. stitch along the edge using your zipper foot on your machine to help. Fold the fabric back, press and top-stitch along the edge of the zip. For the larger top section, cut your fabric to size across the width, but add extra (approximately 2")to the height to cover the zip. Lay the zip teeth down onto the right side of your other cushion back, so the tape aligns with the fabric edge. Pin and sew.

 
 

 

Now at each end of the zip, you are going to sew an 'L' shape to stop the zipper and create the concealed fold. With your fabrics still right sides together and the zipper in the centre with the pull in the middle, mark out up to 2" in on the width along the zip and up to 1" down (or the width of the zip tape). Do this at both ends of the zip, and then sew along your marks, ensuring you run across the zipper teeth a few times to make it extra secure. Now fold back your fabric and press carefully over the zip. Next, top stitch along the other side of the zip through the fabric flap, lining up along the zipper teeth to hold the layers in place. Then, trim off the tape in line with the fabric edge and snip down either side of the tape carefully to avoid the fabric. then cut across to remove the teeth from the L shape sections to reduce bulk on the seams. Make sure your cushion back is the right size and square.

 

 To join the back to the front, you first need to decide if you are binding the cushion or not. Above shows a cushion ready to be bound, with the front and back pieces simply aligned wrong sides together and a stitched line around the edge, less than a 1/4" from the edge to hold the layers in place. You can then trim the sides neatly and sew on the binding of choice to finish, covering the joining stitching around the edge. If you don't want to add binding, place your front and back right sides together, with the zipper open and stitch all the way around using a 1/4" seam allowance. Turn the cushion through the gap in the open zipper and press. For a nice alternative to binding or piping, you can topstitch around the edges around 1/4" in on the turned through and pressed cushion.

 

 

 

Mx

GU cheesecake pincushion

I have made a few of these pin cushions now and personally I love them. They recycle a gu cheesecake jar (old style with straight sides), they are a really nice size and because it's also a little heavy, it can double as a pattern weight.

I choose to trim mine with some lace and thin ribbon, but you could use whatever you prefer. I think pom Pom trim would be so fun!

To make your own, you will need:

the pattern and instructions sheet

fabric

thread and needle

hot glue gun

trims

I sew mine on my machine, but you could use a small back stitch to hand sew yours.

 

If you share your pincushion online please make reference to this blog and if you use Instagram, don’t forget to share your pincushions with the #craftylilmousepatterns

Happy stitching 

Mx