Zippy tube pattern

I have released a few patterns recently on Etsy for digital download (shop here) but I thought I would share my latest creation on here for free!! Below are my measurements and template, simply save the jpeg below and print on a4 landscape, no scaling !!

I am not sharing all of the step by step instructions, as I came across a great little free video tutorial for a similar construction method ... Find it HERE!

If you fancy making your own pouch, please use my measurements and the above tutorial, along with these few little extra tips: 

• Quilt the main body panels after inserting the zip
• Add heavy interfacing into the spine and quilt to give it extra structure since it’s tall 
• Baste the spine lining piece before quilting to hold it in place neatly
• Hand-stitch the binding for a neater finish than on the machine
  

The pouch is a nice big size with plenty of room for stationary, sewing tools and supplies or even cosmetics. It's also easy to adjust the height by tweaking the bottom side panel and spine pieces to your requirements. With the one below, I also added a mesh pocket into the top section with fold over elastic on the top edge of the mesh, basted into place and trimmed after quilting the top panel, before attaching to the side panel. 

Find inspiration and share your makes on Instagram using #zippytubepouch and most of all enjoy sewing!!

Mx

Snappy zip pouch

So I have now released my first pattern! It’s called the snappy zip pouch and I thought I’d tell you all about it!

It all started with the gift I made for the #send a little love swap I took part in January/February. I decided to create this double sided pouch. One side has a zip and the other a snap fastening (or in this case 2)

I was very happy when the recipient loved it and I got many compliments. A couple of people asked if I’d be making a pattern because they would like to make one too. I wasn’t sure at first but then thought why not... it wasn’t the easiest to do though. I tend to make little scribbles as I sew when I’m making it up as I go, sometimes I can’t even understand them and definitely not enough to write instructions! 

I decided I’d start again, worked out the measurements and take pictures as I sew. Then came the written instructions, for this I talked my sister into helping. She is loads better at English but only a beginner at sewing, so explaining everything wasn’t the easiest. We thought we had done alright but wasn’t quite happy with our first attempt. I sent it to a couple of people to pattern test for me and give some feedback. Then came the stress of making amendments, a few diagrams and deciding the pictures weren’t quite right. I ended up making another pouch to show everything clearly and I am so glad I did. Then it went off to the pattern testers again, plus an extra as a fresh set of eyes.

During this time I also made a couple more and changed the sizes and made a few alterations. My sister was not pleased when I asked to add more to the pattern, but as a consumer I always love bonus sizes so thought it could only be a good thing. 

I’m so happy with how it turned out and the pdf download is now available in my Etsy store. I feel nervous about the whole selling thing but also I’m so excited to see everyone’s pouches. 

Would I do it again... part of me thinks no. It’s a lot of effort and I found it quite stressful, however... maybe, yes. I have another pouch I’m desperate to make myself but feel it could also be a nice pattern to share. I think we learnt a lot and it might be easier the second time, so we shall see...watch this space!

If you want to make your own #snappyzippouch visit my Etsy here to buy the pattern!

This whole experience was part of my finish-a-long project list for this quarter. You can read more about my projects here. It is almost time for Q3 so if you fancy joining too, visit their blog here.

Mx

zipped cushion tutorial

Since I'm running a cushion swap over on Instagram, I thought I would share a quick tutorial on how I like to make a nice neat zipped cushion back.

 

 

Start with a zip longer than your cushion width. Cut a piece of fabric approximately 2" high by the width of the cushion for the bottom of the back. Lay your zipper teeth down onto the right side of the fabric strip and pin in place, so the zipper tape lines up with the top edge of the fabric. stitch along the edge using your zipper foot on your machine to help. Fold the fabric back, press and top-stitch along the edge of the zip. For the larger top section, cut your fabric to size across the width, but add extra (approximately 2")to the height to cover the zip. Lay the zip teeth down onto the right side of your other cushion back, so the tape aligns with the fabric edge. Pin and sew.

 
 

 

Now at each end of the zip, you are going to sew an 'L' shape to stop the zipper and create the concealed fold. With your fabrics still right sides together and the zipper in the centre with the pull in the middle, mark out up to 2" in on the width along the zip and up to 1" down (or the width of the zip tape). Do this at both ends of the zip, and then sew along your marks, ensuring you run across the zipper teeth a few times to make it extra secure. Now fold back your fabric and press carefully over the zip. Next, top stitch along the other side of the zip through the fabric flap, lining up along the zipper teeth to hold the layers in place. Then, trim off the tape in line with the fabric edge and snip down either side of the tape carefully to avoid the fabric. then cut across to remove the teeth from the L shape sections to reduce bulk on the seams. Make sure your cushion back is the right size and square.

 

 To join the back to the front, you first need to decide if you are binding the cushion or not. Above shows a cushion ready to be bound, with the front and back pieces simply aligned wrong sides together and a stitched line around the edge, less than a 1/4" from the edge to hold the layers in place. You can then trim the sides neatly and sew on the binding of choice to finish, covering the joining stitching around the edge. If you don't want to add binding, place your front and back right sides together, with the zipper open and stitch all the way around using a 1/4" seam allowance. Turn the cushion through the gap in the open zipper and press. For a nice alternative to binding or piping, you can topstitch around the edges around 1/4" in on the turned through and pressed cushion.

 

 

 

Mx

Send a little love swap...

I signed up to take part in the IG based swap for valentines. It was the #sendalittleloveswap2019 which was a quite fun little swap to take part in. I signed up just before I made my Q1 finish-a-long list so I decided I would add it to my list. I knew it would be an easy finish since I hate to let people down, so I knew it would be completed on time. This Blog post about it is little bit late though. I have the worst memory and basically forgot to write it til now when it’s time to link up our finishes. I would forget my own head if it wasn’t screwed on!

On to the swap...

It was a small swap that was to be love themed and opened on Valentine’s Day. There was a £10-£12 budget and you needed to include:

• A heart shaped item
• Something edible 
• Stationary 
• Craft notion
• Handmade item

I was partnered with @susyb65 and her inspiration mosaic was brilliant. There were so many wonderful ideas , I was very tempted to do a few of them. The swap did say 1 handmade item though and given personal time restrictions I decided it was best to just make the one thing and buy the others.

 

I found a very simple ceramic hanging heart decoration, it was embossed with the word love and I thought was quite nice. I had noticed we shared the love of malteaser buttons so got the biggest bag I could find. For stationary I found a couple of notebooks with hearts on and thought they were so lovely (wish I had bought myself some too) of course I just had to include a coordinating pen too. I was spoiled for choice when it come to picking a craft notion. I spotted these cute love themed ribbons and since sue does multiple crafts I thought they would be perfect.

Lastly was the handmade item, this was more challenging deciding what to make. I was all set to make a draw sting project bag/basket, when sue made herself one. I finally opted instead to create my own zip pouch pattern. Fabric choice was the next decision, I posted a couple of fabric options on ig and was very happy when sue commented her favourite. 

It was a nice pouch to make and after a few suggestions to make it in to a pattern, I am now in the process of doing so! I’m so excited but more on that in the next few months.

Now to share what I received from the lovely @michellehollyoak

 

I was sent some malteser buttons, a pen and little heart shaped paper clips, some Riley Blake fabric and a needle felting kit. She also made a lavender filled heart (with her home grown lavender) and a crochet market tote. A hexie coaster was also sent as a little extra.  I love all my gifts and am especially excited to try the needle felting. This swap made me feel very spoilt this Valentine’s Day.

Mx 

go large!!

 

For this variation on the basic boxed bag (instructions here), I have made the bag much larger, quilted the fabric and added handles to be used as a knitting bag. To make it, I scaled up the pattern as follows:

• the main body: 2x outer fabric, 2x batting & 2x lining measuring 12" x 24" with 3" square cutaways (for the boxed corners) 
• handles:  2x outer fabric measuring 25" x 3 1/2" & batting measuring 24 1/2" x 1"
• 18" zip

First, I roughly cut the outer fabric and batting to size, allowing extra for the quilting. I then quilted the outer fabric and batting using straight rows of stitching. Once quilted, I cut out the pattern pieces and began to assemble, treating the quilted pieces the same as I would usually treat outer fabric. For the handles, I cut an extra 2 lengths of batting and 2 strips of fabric to create quilted grab handles. If you prefer, you could use webbing or other construction methods to make the handles, (see more information here). Before the outer fabric and lining pieces were joined together, I machine stitched the handles in position on the outer fabric. This ensures the stitching isn't seen on the inside, keeping the finish as neat as possible. This style of bag, (simply enlarged with handles, but without quilting the fabric) would also work well for a swimming or gym bag, especially if you used a shower curtain or water resistant lining.

 

 

Mx

a two colour twist ....

I made this 2 colour variation of the basic boxed bag (step by step tutorial here). You must first decide what proportions of each fabric you would like, as you can create a 50/50 split or just have a little of the second fabric showing as I have here. The main thing to remember is to add 1/4" seam allowance to each piece to allow for the joining of the fabric. For example, a finished size of 10" with a 70/30 split would require 1 x 7 1/4" piece and 1 x 3 1/4" piece for each side. The fabrics should be joined using a 1/4" seam allowance before the pattern pieces are cut to shape and assembled. The other thing to be aware of when creating a two colour piece is to make sure the joins between the fabrics line up at the seams when sewing the front and back together. The two colour version is therefore slightly more advanced than a single colour bag, but provides opportunity to play with mixing different coloured and patterned fabrics.

Mx

boxed bag for the boys !!

 

I made this simple wash bag as a gift for a male friend. This is a variation on the bag in the last step by step tutorial, showing how fabric choice can change the look. I used thick upholstery fabric with a jeans print for the outer, to give it stiffness which helps hold the shape without the need for interfacing. I used a shower curtain to make the lining water resistant, so it's perfect for use as a wash bag.

 

Mx

Basic boxed bag...

Continuing the theme of zipper pouches, I decided to return to the boxed corners with this step by step guide on how to make a fully boxed, lined pouch/bag. This makes a neat but roomy bag, perfect for cosmetics or stationary!

 

To start, back your lining fabric with some medium weight iron on interfacing to give it structure and help hold the boxed shape. Then, cut the following:

• 2 x outer fabric measuring 7 1/2" x 10 1/2" 
• 2 x lining fabric measuring 7 1/2" x 10 1/2"
• 1 x cardboard square template measuring 1 1/2"

You will also need a 8" zip and cotton to colour match the fabric. The handmade label is an optional extra I like to add into all my sewing projects. A short length of coordinating ribbon to use as a zip pull is another optional extra finishing touch which can look nice.
 

Using your square template, trace around each of the corners of all 4 fabric pieces. Cut the squares of fabric off and discard. 

 

Make a sandwich with the lining right side up, zipper tape teeth facing up and outer fabric right side down. Pin and sew using 1/4" seam allowance with the zipper foot on your machine. Fold the fabric back away from the zip and create another sandwich to attach the other side. 

 

Lay out flat and press. Top stitch along the edges of the zip for a neat finish. Part open the zip to allow for turning through.

 

Now turn so the outer fabrics are right sides together and the linings are right sides together. Pin around the edges, leaving the cutaway corners and a gap in the base of the lining. Add your handmade label into the side seam of the lining if you are including one.

Sew around the edges using the 1/4" seam allowance, ensuring you do a locking stitch at either end of every length of stitching, (putting the machine into reverse to create a short length of tripled up stitches to hold everything in place). 

To shape the boxed corners, open the fabric out where you have a gap in the stitching and pinch the seams together to create a flat edge. Try to ensure the side and base seams align before pinning and sewing.
 

 

For the corners near the zip at the top of the pouch, you need to pinch both the lining and outer fabric corners together. I find it easiest to pinch the corner of one fabric and ensure this is lined up, then still gripping this, pinch in the other side and bring this into line. It can be a little more tricky to ensure all the layers are aligned with each other and central to the zipper tape. Once all of the corners are pinned, sew on the machine using the same 1/4" seam allowance. You may wish to reverse stitch over the zip when sewing the top corners to reinforce the ends of the zip. 
 

Turn through to double check everything is OK on the right side before turning back through. Cut away the excess from the ends of the zipper, (using old scissors so you don't blunt nice fabric ones!) You might also want to go back around the seam allowance inside using pinking shears, zigzag stitching or an overlocker, to prevent fraying and remove excess bulk. 
 

Turn back through and slip stitch the gap in the lining before pushing this into the pouch. Give it a final press, loop the ribbon through the zip pull, knot and trim the ends to complete the pouch.

Don't forget to save your scraps... all of those little squares cut from the corners can be used in little patchwork projects and mini makes!!

 

Mx 

Front zip pouch

For this tutorial I wanted to create another variation on the zipper pouch, this time moving the zip part way down the front panel. This is easy to make without a lining, however, I like my pouches to be fully lined for a more professional finish. Adding a lining means this version is a little more tricky than a basic pouch, but I think it is worth it. Follow the step by step instructions below to sew your own...

 

Add iron on interfacing to the wrong side of the lining fabric (following the instructions on the interfacing). Then, cut 1 x outer fabric and 1 x lining fabric into rectangles of the following measurements:

• 6 1/2" x 7 1/2" 
• 5" x 7 1/2"
• 2" x 7 1/2" 

You will also need coordinating cotton, an 8" zip, a hand sewing needle and a handmade tag (optional) to complete the pouch.
 

First, take the 2" pieces and create a sandwich, lining right side up, zip with teeth facing up and outer fabric right side down. Line up the top edges of the fabric along the outer edge of the zipper tape and pin in position.

 

Sew along the edge with a 1/4" seam allowance using the zipper foot on your machine. Fold the fabric back, press and top stitch. 
 

Repeat the sandwich for the other side of the zip to attach the 5" fabric pieces. Lay down the lining right side up, zip with teeth facing up and outer fabric right side down. Make sure everything is lined up along the top edge of the zipper tape, as well as in line with the fabric on the other side of the zip and pin.

Sew with a 1/4" seam allowance. As before, fold the fabric back, press and top stitch.

 

To prepare the zip, you will need to create a stopper across the end. This is done using a hand sewing needle and thread to tack across the zipper teeth to hold them closed. The tacking won't be visible on the finished pouch, as it is hidden within the seams. Open the zip so the zip pull is not going to be trapped in the seams, but allow a large enough gap to turn through later.

 

Now to attach the back, fold the lining fabric up towards the zip, so it is out of the way of the outer fabric. Then, place the 6 1/2" outer fabric piece onto the project so right sides are together. Line it up and pin along the bottom edge, then sew across the base with a 1/4" seam allowance. 
 

For the lining fabric, pull the outer fabric out of the way and pin the largest lining fabric piece in place with right sides together. This time sew across the base leaving a gap in the middle for turning through. 
 

At this stage, the project should look like the first image above when opened out. To sew up the top and sides, you now need to fold the lining fabric in to face right sides together and the outer fabric in to face right sides together (second image). If you are adding a handmade label, fold the tab to sit between the lining layers and pin in position with the raw edges facing out so they will be caught in the seams. 

You then need to fold the project in, so the sewn base edges line up and the fabric is sandwiched with the zip in the centre and looking like the neat rectangle above. Pin around the sides and top, leaving the base edge.
 

Sew around the sides and top so that all of the layers are joined together on three sides, (along the base edge, only the linings should be joined to each other and the outer fabrics joined to each other with a gap between). To reinforce the zip, reverse stitch to add extra rows of stitching along either end of the zip when sewing around the edges. 
 

Before turning through, remove excess bulk. Trim away the ends of the zipper and snip the corners, then carefully remove excess fabric within the seam allowance all of the way around the edge. You can either use pinking shears, (as I have here) or an overlocker to do this. 
 

You can now turn through, using the gap in the base of the lining to reach around and through the open zip to pull the layers back out. This is quite tricky so just take it steady and be patient. Once you have the layers the right way round, you can use a bamboo turner to help push the corners into shape. Finally, give it a press and slip stitch the gap in the lining closed. As an extra finishing touch, you can tie on a piece of ribbon around the zip pull. 

Mx 

a neat zip ...

For this sewing step by step, I made another zipper pouch, but used a different technique for the zip on this one which requires a little more skill to create a neater finish.

 

 

To begin with, I added iron on interfacing to my lining fabric to give the pouch more structure. I then cut the fabric pieces as follows:

• Cut 2 x outer fabric measuring 9" x 4 1/2"
• Cut 2 x lining fabric measuring 9" x 4 1/2"
• Cut 4 x small rectangles measuring 1 1/4 " x 3" (2 from lining fabric and 2 from outer fabric)
• You will also need a zip, coordinating cotton and if you would like, a hand made tag. Some contrasting cotton and a hand sewing needle are also handy when altering the zip.

The first stage once you have cut all of your fabrics is to prepare the zip, by adding coordinating fabric stoppers onto either end. To do this, you will need to press the fabric for the stopper tabs, folding each of them in half, wrong sides together. Using a hand needle and contrasting cotton, tack over the zipper teeth 1" from the end of the zipper tape.

 

 

To attach, place the outer fabric tab right side down (opened out fully) onto the zipper teeth, and the lining fabric right side up beneath. Ensuring the end of the fabric aligns with the end of the zipper tape, sew across the zip through all of the layers approximately 1 1/4" from the end using your zipper foot on the machine. Now fold the tabs back along the half way creases to reveal the right sides of the fabrics. Trim the excess to remove the bulk, leaving only the outer fabric and the outer side of the lining fabric (cutting away the end of the zip and inner lining). Repeat for the other end of the zip, ensuring the zipper is pulled open to remain within the new length of the zip.

 

You can then begin construction of the bag. Layer one piece of the outer fabric and one lining fabric, right sides together. Place the zip between the fabrics along the top edge, with the zipper teeth facing the outer fabric. Pin and stitch using a zipper foot, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance. Fold right sides out and press, then top stitch. Repeat for the other side.

  You should now have all of fabrics joined together with a zip across the centre. With a project like this, it may be necessary to trim the edges neat again at this stage to ensure everything lines up.

 

Now, open the zip to allow for turning through once sewn. fold the project so lining pieces are right sides together and outer fabrics are right sides together. Then position the zip so the teeth are facing down towards the lining. Pin your tag within the lining section if you are adding one. Then pin around the edges and sew, remembering ​to leave a gap in the lining for turning through.

To get the really neat points in the corners, it may be a good idea to trim the corners off the fabrics to remove excess... just don't cut through your stitching! Turn out the bag and slip stitch the gap in the lining. Press, then push the lining down inside the bag and push out the corners before giving it a finishing press. You may also need to use a bamboo turner tool to push out the corners without poking a hole through. It's a bit of a tricky one to master, but it does give a professional finish once complete.

 

 

Mx