Trimming Half Square Triangles

I have released a couple of quilt patterns now and it's got me thinking about beginner quilters. I am in no way an expert, however, I would like to share some experience and try to help if you are just starting your quilting journey. My quilt patterns (as well as many other patterns and blogs) have good instructions for making half square triangles (HST). They are a nice easy and very versatile block, but they need to be trimmed properly to line up. Many instructions don't show trimming though and if you are new to patchwork you may be wondering how to trim your HSTs. 

Here is a quick little tutorial...

1. Press your seam open and lay your HST block onto a cutting mat. Place a quilting ruler on top, with the 45° angle line running along the seam.

2. Use a rotary cutter along the edge of your ruler to trim away the excess fabric. Make sure that the remaining block is big enough for the size of square you are trimming. In this photo the HST is to be trimmed to 3".

3. Once trimmed, turn your block so the trimmed edges are lined up against the measurement you are trimming to, with the 45° angle line running along the seam. 

4. Trim away the excess fabric, leaving a perfectly trimmed HST block.

5. Repeat for all of the other HSTs in your project.

I hope you find this helpful and keep checking back for more quick tutorials I'm hoping to add soon.

Mx

Binding Tutorial

As I release my first ever quilt pattern, I looked back on my blog tutorials to help people finish their quilts and decided it was time for an update . I wanted to share step by step instructions on how to cut, join and attach binding to complete a project for anyone needing a little extra guidance. 

My preferred method of binding, especially for big projects and quilts is this one. I cut 2 1/2" X WOF (width of fabric) strips. If necessary, I join the strips to create one length. You can use a straight join with the strips simply attached end to end, however, I prefer a 45° join as they are less bulky. To create the 45° join, take one strip on the wrong side and draw a line at 45° across the end. Lay this on top of your next strip, right sides together at 90° with the draw line across the outer corner. Pin together and sew along the marked line. Trim off the corner to leave a 1/4" seam and press open. Repeat as needed to create your continuous length of binding, then press in half lengthways.

 Take the pressed binding strip and position on the front of your project, with the raw edges of the binding aligned along the outer edge. I like to start the binding along the bottom edge as the join is usually less noticeable there. Clip or pin the binding in position along the first edge and start to stitch, leaving the first 4 - 5" of the strip loose. Use a 1/4" seam allowance along the raw edge and a walking foot on your sewing machine if possible (as this helps to feed the layers through evenly). 

For the corners, stop stitching 1/4" from the end. Then, fold the fabric 90° away from the project, creating a 45° fold at the corner. Holding the corner fold (you may wish to pin), flip  the binding 180° so it aligns with the next raw edge creating a neat 90° corner, covering the 45° fold inside. Clip in place and restart sewing from the corner edge, continuing to use the 1/4" seam allowance. Repeat for each corner until you come towards the final length of binding. You will need to leave a gap with loose end to join to the beginning of the strip. 

To join the strips on a project, lay the binding down flat across the unstitched gap. The binding should overlap. Measure and trim the ends so that they are a neat straight edge with an overlap of exactly 2 1/2".  

Then, open out the folded strips and mark a line 45° across one end. Making sure you don't twist the strips, position the marked end right sides together at 90° with the opposite end, held away from the edge of the project. Pin and stitch along the marked line, then open out to check the join is correct and will lay flat. If so, trim the corner off leaving a 1/4" seam and finger press open. Stitch the remainder of the binding to the project. 

 

With the front sewn on, the pressed edge of the binding can then be folded over to the back to be stitched down. This can be done by machine for speed, but I always prefer to hand sew using a ladder stitch for an invisible finish. Carefully fold over the binding one section at a time, using binding clips to hold in place. These can mark fabric if left on too long so just clip each section as you are sewing then remove. The binding shouldn't be pulled so it is too tight over the edge of the project, or be left loose. Once clipped in place, simply ladder stitch along the pressed edge onto the backing fabric. For the corners, sew down flat until you reach the edge of the project, then folding the excess in, fold the next edge over to create a mitred corner. Clip in place and continue stitching the folded edge of the binding, repeating at each corner until the binding is fully secured. The finished binding will look similar on both sides.

 

Mx

My #100daysusingcottonandsteel project finished!

Let’s face it my #100dayproject2020 did not go entirely to plan. There's some projects on my list I intended to do and didn't, some I actually finished and a few I started, but are still in progress. So here's a run down of the projects I made...

The postage style quilt- I was super pleased to get it slightly bigger than I expected at 84 inches square. This was 441 4” squares in the end! I chose a quilting design that needs custom quilting by a long armer and there was quite a wait list, so it will be a while before I get it back to bind and finish. We will all just have to wait a while for those photos, but here is the finished top before the quilting!

The scrappy triangle cushion- this was finished early in the project. I pieced and then hand quilted it. I am super happy with how it looks and it's now in full use in the lounge. Tutorial blog for that is here!

Patchwork tote- well this was worked on a little in the middle of the 100 days but left until the last push to actually finish. I went with using only melody miller designed fabrics in the end and love the way it turned out.

Pin badge banner- made for my sisters birthday. I have been wanting to make one for ages, so I’m pleased I have made one now. I added a rainbow panel to the top for some fun colour. I also made her a key ring with the perfect selvage too!

A rainbow jelly roll quilt- so technically I didn’t use a jelly roll at all, which would have made it so much easier. Anyways, I am so happy with my new quilt. You can see and read more about it here including where to get the free pattern to make your own!

Selvedge cushions- I always wanted to use the fun selvedges from my stash but I wasn’t sure what for exactly. I took inspiration from a quilt a lady was making on instagram. I didn’t have any where near enough for a quilt, so I made a pair of cushions instead. They look so fun with my quilts and other cushion in the lounge.

I made 2 pouches- one to join in with a sew along, (although I didn’t like the original size so changed everything.) I made another where I supersized the idea to be a pencil case, again using all my own measurements and a different construction method to make it work.

A fabric bookmark using a few scraps, which I was going to give away but ended up keeping in the end... I did gift something else instead !!

I also made a few smaller projects: a #weeboxybasket (pattern by sweet cinnamon roses), 2 key rings using selvedges, which feature the fun text and prints to make them extra special for myself and mum and a simple hair ribbon, made using lawn fabric for extra softness.

It wasn't just me using my cotton and steel stash in the 100 days... My mum used my mini travel pinnie pattern (available in my Etsy store here) to make a gift for my sister.

My sister is also in the middle of using my stash to make herself a quilt too! I didn’t take photos to share but I finished cutting out my entire ice cream soda Epp quilt. I also cut out and have started a triangle quilt, more will be shared for that soon, hopefully. I also used some stash doing a giveaway of 70 precut hexies. 

So overall during the project I might not have finished everything but I feel like I got a lot made so I’m happy with that. I did however end up purchasing a few bits, mainly large cuts for backings and a few basics. This definitely wasn’t helpful in reducing my stash. In fact even though I have made so many things, including cutting out 5 quilts, I still don’t look to have used much!

I learnt I actually like doing my other hobbies still and miss them if I give something else too much attention. I also feel a little lost now my challenge is over and my focus has been removed.

I think going forward I need to set smaller goals to get the sense of achievement, but definitely make time for other activities I enjoy too. 

Mx

scrappy triangle cushion

I made this cushion using my cotton + steel fabrics as part of my #100dayproject on Instagram. I grouped the fabrics into colour families and pieced half square triangles around a central economy block to create the design. The cushion finishes up at 18". If you would like to make your own, here's how to do it …

To create the patchwork, you will need to cut: 

1 blue square @ 4 3/4"

4 yellow triangles

8 navy triangles

20 cream triangles

20 pink triangles

12 peach triangles

4 teal triangles

 For the half square triangles, I use the easy angle ruler and cut to a 3 1/2". If you don't have this ruler, cut squares at 3 7/8th" and split on the 45 degree angle. 

For the economy block, position the first two triangles opposite each other, RST onto the central square. Align along the outer edges, pin and sew. Press open, then repeat for the remaining two sides as seen above. Trim the finished block to a square (this should be 6 1/2"). 

 To construct the half square triangle blocks, place two triangles RST, pin and sew along the long edge. Press open and trim to a square, removing the dog ears on the corners. Ensure all of the half square triangle blocks are the same size (this should be 3 1/2"). 

To put the cushion top together, I like to lay out all of my cut pieces to check I'm happy with the layout. I then stitch the centre block, followed by the surrounding half square triangles. I like to chain piece, so I prep all of the blocks and then stitch and press in stages. To join the blocks, I group into 4 patches around the centre, then piece together as shown above. 

I chose to hand quilt the top to highlight the diamonds created by the colours. I used aurifil 12WT and echo quilted, using a large quilting hoop to help with the tension as I stitched. Of course, you could machine quilt if your preferred. 

To finish the cushion, I created a concealed zip back (tutorial post here) and bound the edges with 2 1/4" binding (binding tutorial post here) for a neat finish to coordinate with my catty corner quilt (see here).

I'm pretty pleased with how this turned out and Millie approves too. I hope this blog helps you to create your own version. Of course, you can switch around the colour schemes for completely different looks to make use of your fabric scraps. 

Mx

Binding Tutorial: Method 2

For my second binding method, I cut strips 2 1/2" and press in half lengthways. The strips are then laid onto the front of the project, with the raw edges of the binding along the outer edge of the project. The binding is attached using the machine with a 1/4" seam allowance along the raw edge. Leave a loose tail of binding approximately 4" long at the start to allow for joining later. At the corners, I stop 1/4" from the end as seen in photo 1. I then fold the fabric away from the project, creating a 45` angle on the corner (photo 2). I then fold the binding strip up vertically to create a neat 90` angle on the corner, with the 45` fold inside and clip in place (photo 3). I restart sewing from the corner edge, continuing to use the 1/4" seam allowance and repeating for each corner.

 

I always start binding in the bottom centre of a project if possible and leave about a 3" gap for joining the binding. The join can be a little tricky to get it to a neat 45` the perfect length, but looks great once it's done and I think it's worth taking the time to do.

 

I start by opening out the binding so it lays flat. One end is folded down on a 45` angle away from the project, with RSU. The other end is then laid across so the binding strips are RST. Following the 45` angle of the fold beneath, I pin the strips together. The pinned binding is then carefully moved out from the project to enable access with the machine to sew along the 45` angle, joining the two strips.

 

Once joined, it is always best to check the binding will lay flat, (no excess which will crease and not too tight that its pulling). Once happy, I cut off the excess from the ends to leave just a 1/4" seam which I press open. Once the join is completed, the binding can be fully sewn onto the front.

 

 

 

With the front sewn on, the pressed edge of the binding can then be folded over to the back. It should look like the above photos at this stage. It is then time to sew on the back of the binding. This could be done by machine for speed, but I always prefer to hand sew using a ladder stitch for an invisible attachment. I gentle fold over the binding one section at a time, using binding clips to hold in place. These can mark fabric if left on too long so I always just do the bit I'm sewing then remove. The binding shouldn't be pulled so it is too tight over the edge of the project, but doesn't want to be left loose. Once clipped in place, simply ladder stitch along the pressed edge onto the backing fabric. This is easier if your backing is in one piece as its less bulky than having the extra seams of a patchwork, but can be done if your project is two sided. With the corners, simply follow the mitre from the front and fold the excess underneath to create the 45` joint before stitching.

 

 

The finished binding will look similar on both sides, something like the cushion in the example above.

 

Mx

a Christmas banner...

This Christmas I am taking part in the #simpleandsweetchristmaspouchswap on Instagram. For the swap you needed to make one pouch and up to two Christmassy extras. More about the pouch I made later, but here is the first of my extras.

 

I made this little Christmas decoration banner. I used some of the moda merriments fabrics I had left over from my escape and create blog project (read about this here). Since my partner didn’t want too traditional, I thought this was quite a good choice with the snowflakes. Since the colours were still abit traditional though, I tried to hand letter the ‘Merry Christmas’ in quite a modern style.

I hand stitched the letters with a coordinated thread colour, then added sparkle with some silver thread over the existing snowflakes.

 

 

Once I’d finished stitching, I placed my two fabrics right sides together and drew my banner shape. I stitched along the lines, leaving a turning gap, then trimmed excess bulk from the corners. I turned it out and gave it a good press before stitching closed the gap. I used the silver thread again to top stitch around the edge of the banner. I folded over the top and top stitched in place. I added a section of paper straw inside the fold to hold the banner and threaded some twine through for hanging tied with a little bow in the top, so my partner can either hang it straight up or re-tie it around something.

 

 

The banner needed one final detail though... a tassel. Since I didn’t have one and wanted it to match, I decided to make my own. Although I’m happy with the results, please remind me not to do this in future! If you would like to make your own, I've included the template for the lettering below.

 

This is one of my Q4 finishes for the finish-a-long challenge, read more about my list here.

Mx

Binding tutorial: method 1

There are two main methods of binding that I use. The first is a simple binding for smaller projects and the other I mainly use for quilts. I thought I'd write a tutorial for each. The first one today and then the second next month.

Method 1 uses 2” strips of fabric and is sewn on to your project with a 1/2” seam allowance. I sometimes join on the bias however in this example I have used straight seams. The benefits of straight seams are that it requires less fabric and is easier to sew.

 

  

 Cut 2” strips the width of fabric (110cm = WOF)

Place 2 strips right sides together and pin the 2" width at one end. Sew together using a 1/4” seam allowance, then press the seams open. 

 

Press the strips in half lengthways, wrong sides together. Then, bring the long raw edges into the middle crease and press along again.

To attach the binding to your project:
1. Clip the binding onto the bottom edge with a few inches extra at the end for joining later. Stitch the binding on using a scant 1/2"seam allowance.
2. Measure and mark 1/2" from the corner and stop stitching when you reach the mark.

3. To shape the corner, fold the binding down wrong side together, vertically in line with the edge of the project, to create a 45 degree angle on the corner. Holding the corner in place, fold the binding back up and clip in place ensuring it is aligned along the corner edges.

4. Stitch from the bottom edge up to the next corner, stopping 1/2” before the end.

5. Repeat step 3 for each corner and continue sewing until you have about 3” before you reach the start of the binding, then stop.
6. To join the two ends, mark a line about 1” in from the end then fold it back on itself, wrong side together. Lay the other end of the strip over the top, right sides together and pin, only catching the top 2 layers of fabric.

7. Fold over to check, that it lays flat and the binding strips meet at the marked line. Make sure to secure the join in place with pins before you move it to sew.

8. Move the binding so the join overhangs the project. Stitch along the marked line to join the 2 layers of binding together. Once sewn, double check the binding lays flat along your project and trim to leave a 1/4"seam allowance, then press the seam open.

9. Stitch the joined section of binding to the project, again using the scant 1/2" seam allowance.

To finish your binding, turn over your project. Bring the binding over to the back, folding the raw edge in and the folded edge down. Clip to hold in place and hand stitch in place on the reverse. I use a ladder stitch although a slip stitch would also be fine. Alternatively, you can use a machine to top stitch close to the edge of the binding.

Mx

 

zipped cushion tutorial

Since I'm running a cushion swap over on Instagram, I thought I would share a quick tutorial on how I like to make a nice neat zipped cushion back.

 

 

Start with a zip longer than your cushion width. Cut a piece of fabric approximately 2" high by the width of the cushion for the bottom of the back. Lay your zipper teeth down onto the right side of the fabric strip and pin in place, so the zipper tape lines up with the top edge of the fabric. stitch along the edge using your zipper foot on your machine to help. Fold the fabric back, press and top-stitch along the edge of the zip. For the larger top section, cut your fabric to size across the width, but add extra (approximately 2")to the height to cover the zip. Lay the zip teeth down onto the right side of your other cushion back, so the tape aligns with the fabric edge. Pin and sew.

 
 

 

Now at each end of the zip, you are going to sew an 'L' shape to stop the zipper and create the concealed fold. With your fabrics still right sides together and the zipper in the centre with the pull in the middle, mark out up to 2" in on the width along the zip and up to 1" down (or the width of the zip tape). Do this at both ends of the zip, and then sew along your marks, ensuring you run across the zipper teeth a few times to make it extra secure. Now fold back your fabric and press carefully over the zip. Next, top stitch along the other side of the zip through the fabric flap, lining up along the zipper teeth to hold the layers in place. Then, trim off the tape in line with the fabric edge and snip down either side of the tape carefully to avoid the fabric. then cut across to remove the teeth from the L shape sections to reduce bulk on the seams. Make sure your cushion back is the right size and square.

 

 To join the back to the front, you first need to decide if you are binding the cushion or not. Above shows a cushion ready to be bound, with the front and back pieces simply aligned wrong sides together and a stitched line around the edge, less than a 1/4" from the edge to hold the layers in place. You can then trim the sides neatly and sew on the binding of choice to finish, covering the joining stitching around the edge. If you don't want to add binding, place your front and back right sides together, with the zipper open and stitch all the way around using a 1/4" seam allowance. Turn the cushion through the gap in the open zipper and press. For a nice alternative to binding or piping, you can topstitch around the edges around 1/4" in on the turned through and pressed cushion.

 

 

 

Mx