For my second binding method, I cut strips 2 1/2" and press in half lengthways. The strips are then laid onto the front of the project, with the raw edges of the binding along the outer edge of the project. The binding is attached using the machine with a 1/4" seam allowance along the raw edge. Leave a loose tail of binding approximately 4" long at the start to allow for joining later. At the corners, I stop 1/4" from the end as seen in photo 1. I then fold the fabric away from the project, creating a 45` angle on the corner (photo 2). I then fold the binding strip up vertically to create a neat 90` angle on the corner, with the 45` fold inside and clip in place (photo 3). I restart sewing from the corner edge, continuing to use the 1/4" seam allowance and repeating for each corner.
I always start binding in the bottom centre of a project if possible and leave about a 3" gap for joining the binding. The join can be a little tricky to get it to a neat 45` the perfect length, but looks great once it's done and I think it's worth taking the time to do.
I start by opening out the binding so it lays flat. One end is folded down on a 45` angle away from the project, with RSU. The other end is then laid across so the binding strips are RST. Following the 45` angle of the fold beneath, I pin the strips together. The pinned binding is then carefully moved out from the project to enable access with the machine to sew along the 45` angle, joining the two strips.
Once joined, it is always best to check the binding will lay flat, (no excess which will crease and not too tight that its pulling). Once happy, I cut off the excess from the ends to leave just a 1/4" seam which I press open. Once the join is completed, the binding can be fully sewn onto the front.
With the front sewn on, the pressed edge of the binding can then be folded over to the back. It should look like the above photos at this stage. It is then time to sew on the back of the binding. This could be done by machine for speed, but I always prefer to hand sew using a ladder stitch for an invisible attachment. I gentle fold over the binding one section at a time, using binding clips to hold in place. These can mark fabric if left on too long so I always just do the bit I'm sewing then remove. The binding shouldn't be pulled so it is too tight over the edge of the project, but doesn't want to be left loose. Once clipped in place, simply ladder stitch along the pressed edge onto the backing fabric. This is easier if your backing is in one piece as its less bulky than having the extra seams of a patchwork, but can be done if your project is two sided. With the corners, simply follow the mitre from the front and fold the excess underneath to create the 45` joint before stitching.
The finished binding will look similar on both sides, something like the cushion in the example above.