Salvedge chair Part 3.

 

If you don’t have the original cover to follow, or you have altered the shape or padded out your chair, you will need to create a pattern or toile. I made mine using a paper pattern. I used tissue paper taped together but newspaper would probably work too just be aware of the print transferring. Pin the paper to the chair back smoothing out so it’s a good fit. Wrap all the way to the back inside the frame where you will be stapling. You can fold, pleat and pin in place to get the shape you need. You may want to cut some excess away at the corners (that is a benefit of paper as it’s cheaper if you make a mistake and need to redo). Once you are happy with the shape, make sure you have drawn on and traced any markings, such as where to pleat or the point where the fabric will overlap, you think will might need later. Then remove from the chair and flatten out gently. Use this paper pattern to cut out your fabric. If you’re not doing patchwork, just cut out the upholstery fabric. You will need to add seam allowance at corners if you plan to sew these bits, which I did as it gives a much more professional look than just a tuck. If you are doing it patchwork, add extra allowance for shrinkage when quilting and start with cotton as a lining/backing, avoiding anything thin or lightweight. I chose a heavy weight cotton as it provided a nice stable base for the top patchwork fabric.

Instead of making a paper pattern, you could go straight to lining fabric if you wanted to. Just be sure you add enough fabric for shrinkage when quilting and have enough to go around the back for stapling. If you are going to do the design in 2 pieces like me, make sure you account for seam allowances at any joins. The best way to create a fabric toile is to cut separate panel pieces and tack together to refine the shape on the chair, mark each piece and ensure you label which way they go before splitting back up into panels. 

Creating my chair cover was time consuming. I did the quilt as you go method that meant my quilting gloves were on and off and I was back and forth to the ironing board. Add in the fact that I changed the thread to match every selvedge so I was constantly re threading my machine and you can appreciate how it took a while. You might ask with the amount of time and effort, do I regret it? No. Knowing how long it took would I go back and do it again? Yes, because it looks how I imagined. Could you do it differently to save time? Definitely. It really depends how you want your chair to look. You could easily create a patchwork top then quilt as normal and it would be a whole lot easier. I could have also just used one thread, many people thought I was crazy switching threads. I did consider a variegated thread but knew I wanted the thread to match so it blended and didn’t take away from the selvedge’s. 

To create the chair cover, first cut your bottom layer/ lining fabric, using the paper pattern as mentioned above. I cut slightly larger than my paper pattern, adding extra to the centre for joining later but also a little extra all around for a bit of quilt shrinkage. Then regular 80/20 batting layer. I considered using the fire retardant stuff but I preferred the density and familiarity of the 80/20. Then do the patchwork and quilting as desired.

 I chose quilt as you go, working bottom to top. If you don’t know how to do this, I’d recommend a quick look on YouTube, but I will give the basics. Lay down the first starter fabric right side up, lay a selvedge right side down on top, so the bottom of the selvedge is at the top of the first piece. Sew along this edge to join all the layers, going just underneath the wording. Flip the selvedge up and press, then choose a matching thread and sew along the edge between the fabric design and the selvedge pattern. Repeat adding selvedges in the same way until you reach the top. Repeat again for the other side. The main reason for doing the design in two halves is that most of my selvedge’s were from fat quarters and wouldn’t be long enough if I hadn’t. I’m decided to make a feature of it with the chevron effect. I have been asked how much fabric I needed and how I calculated it. The truth is I didn’t really. I had my lining and batting layers flat on the desk or floor and laid the selvedges on top. I was careful to consider seam allowance so I would have enough to cover when quilted. I laid mine out so I knew how many I’d need, and so I could see how the colours and patterns would work together to hopefully create a nice overall balance. I also wanted to use all the different fabric ranges I had collected over the years, with as few repeats as possible. I did need to use selvedges from the same range a few times but each were from different fabrics within the range. Once it’s sewn in place it’s a lot of unpicking if you don’t like it so best to lay it out and plan ahead. 

My chair used 102 selvedges. I will note here that I cut off my selvedges to include some of the fabric as well. Some people cut close the the selvedge, so they don’t lose usable yardage but I like to see the fabric too. It also means it takes less selvedges to cover a bigger area. I didn’t cut all the selvedges uniform widths. The minimum fabric was cut to 1/2”, a few were cut to 2 1/2”  but most were between 3/4”- 1 1/2”. Basically the rule is the less fabric, the more selvedges needed, which means the more sewing and time it will take. However, keep too much fabric and you will loose the selvedge effect and look. I think it worked well to do a mixture of fabric widths and am happy I did it that way. It does mean I can’t give exact requirements without measuring all 102 selvedge's and life is too short, sorry. Every chair is also different,so mine is only ever going to be a guide as to the amount. Really, measuring once you have the calico layer is the only way to work out the area you need to cover. You will need longer lengths for the back though so be sure to save those. Shorter ones can be added at the top and on the seat pad. You may want to lay out all the panels for tactical use of your pieces rather than just working on one section at a time … it entirely your choice. 

Speaking of the seat pad, I made the panel for this in two parts as well. I wanted the centre line to run all the way down to chair but meet in the centre as a cross. Measure the seat pad again, this time front to back adding 1" and from one side to the other. Divide the width in half then add 1". I'd add an extra 2/3" lining and batting for shrinkage, but make sure the to cover the area needed and trim to size after quilting. If you are doing it in one piece you don't need to divide the width in half but will still need to add 1" for 1/2" seam allowance at each side for joining. I chose to add a zip at the back,  it will be easier to clean as the seat panels will probably need it. It will also be neater than hand stitching the turning gap closed too. Once the long panel (or two panels in a long piece) is finished and trimmed to size it’s time to add the zip. To insert the zip, first create a fabric loop by joining each short end/ the back edge right sides together where the zip will be going, sewing with a 1/2" seam allowance. Use a short stitch length at the edges and a long stitch length in the middle where your zip opening needs to be. I'd recommend leaving at least 1" at each side of the opening with fabric securely joined. Open the seam and press well. Lay the zip, teeth down along the seam, where the longer stitch length/opening will be and hand baste in place. Now with the fabric is right side up topstitch a neat box around the zip, back stitching at each end for added security. You need to be sure to catch the zip tape to hold in place securely. Once the zip is in place, you can unpick the basting and longer length stitches to reveal the zip opening. Now turn so the right side of the fabric is inside, with the zip (partly open) at the back, sew the side seams to create the cushion cover. Then box the corners to the same measurement as before. Remove excess fabric at the corners (you may want to try the cushion pad before doing this to check the fit) and insert your seat pad. 

You can do any patchwork and quilting you want to do, you could even use a quilt you have already made. You simply need a big enough piece to cover your chair. I will explain the process of covering the chair back in the next blog, so come back for that.

Mx